039: Starting the Camino in St-Jean-Pied-de-Port: Options for Tackling (or Skipping!) the Pyrenees
Hello Camino friends! Here’s what’s in this issue:
🏔“Starting the Camino in St-Jean-Pied-de-Port: Options for Tackling (or Skipping!) the Pyrenees”
📸Scenes from the Camino: Camino Francés Day 1
🎥This week’s live interview: Debbie Bartolomucci — the Camino Francés
🥾How to get help planning your Camino.
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Starting the Camino in St-Jean-Pied-de-Port: Options for Tackling (or Skipping!) the Pyrenees
“How hard is tomorrow going to be?” she asked me.
“Hard,” I said.
Tomorrow she would start the Camino de Santiago—by walking over the Pyrenees.
My number one job, as a volunteer in the pilgrim office in St. Jean-Pied-de-Port, is to reassure the pilgrims. But that doesn’t mean I’m going to lie to them.
Most don’t ask my opinion, so — as I’ve been trained — I don’t say offer it. I simply show them the elevation chart, which speaks for itself.
A 1400 meter (4600 ft) climb over 21 km (13 mi) . . . followed by a steep 5 km descent into Roncesvalles.
I tell them that if they choose to walk the 26 km/16 miles to Roncesvalles, it takes an average of 7-8 hours. I don’t say that it takes some people 12 hours.
I give them the trail map and circle the last place to get food and where the water spots are.
But What If That Doesn’t Sound Like Your Ideal First Day?
Maybe the idea of starting your camino with a 26km stroll over the Pyrenees doesn’t appeal to you.
Good news:
You’ve Got Options
Option 1: Split the Stage in Two
You can break the walk from Saint-Jean-Pied-dePort to Roncesvalles into two days.
This will take some planning as there are limited private room accommodations.
Refuge Orisson has some.
Auberge Borda has one.
It’s a walk of about 3 hours to get to Orisson and 3 hours 20 min to get to Borda.
Note: These options fill up quickly, so book early.
Option 2: Walk Partway and Shuttle Back
Express Bourricot offers a great service:
Walk up to a designated point
They pick you up and return you to St. Jean-Pied-de-Port
The next day they bring you back to where you left off
Bonus: You get to spend an extra night in the idyllic town of St. Jean-Pied-de-Port.
Option 3: Start Your Camino Somewhere Else
There’s no rule that says a Camino has to start in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port.
And there’s definitely no rule requiring you to walk over the Pyrenees.
You can choose to start your walk on the Camino Francés in
Roncesvalles
Pamplona
Burgos
León
Astorga
The Camino de Santiago is a network of trails. So in addition to the above suggested starting points, there are plenty of other Camino routes to walk that don’t involve such an intense climb and descent.
One More Thing: You Don’t Have to Carry Everything
No matter which of these you choose, remember there’s no rule that says you have to carry all of your Camino gear on your back. Do take advantage of the reliable luggage transport services. They operate daily from May to October on the most popular routes, and some even operate year-round.
My Suggestion:
My father and I managed to get the only private room (with private bathroom) at Auberge Borda. We hired Express Bourricot to transport our luggage up there. The views are stunning. The meal was one of the best I’ve had on the Camino—not just for the delicious food, but for the atmosphere: pilgrims from around the world gathered round an outdoor table, getting to know each other.
If you can’t get that room, I’d suggest staying 2 nights in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port and using Express Bourricot’s shuttle service. It’s a great town—and however you choose to start your Camino, make sure you get more than a few hours here to soak it all in.
I’ve stayed in Orisson. Great food, great camaraderie — but it’s a much larger space and I’ve only stayed in their hostel rooms, so can’t speak to their private rooms. I prefer the intimacy of the small group at Auberge Borda.
Are you starting in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port? What’s you’re plan?
Have you done this part of the Camino Francés? What did you do? Would you recommend it?
📸Scenes from the Camino: Camino Francés Day 1
You can also pick up your shell—the symbol of the Camino—at the Pilgrim Office in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. Here’s a behind-the-scenes look at how we volunteers make that magic happen.
🎥Join me for live interviews here on Substack!
Sure, I can tell you all about how to train for, plan, and walk the Camino de Santiago. But what’s better than me? Conversations with others (45+) who have done it!
Wednesday, Nov. 19, 11-11:45 ET: Debbie Bartolomucci walked over 500 miles on the Camino Francés. She spent 38 days on the trail and says next time she’d go ever slower—join us to find out why.
Do you want to be an interview guest? Send me a message!
🥾Ready to start planning your Camino?
Rebecca Weston
Camino Planning & Preparation Guide (for People 45+)
Rebecca@TheCaminoCalls.com
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🥾 Walk With Rebecca: 7-day hybrid Camino walks — 3 days guided, 4 days independent, private rooms, preparation classes, and optional check-ins. Click here to be the first to be notified about my next trip.Rebecca Weston is an American who walked her first Camino in 2012.
About me: I’ve walked more than a dozen Caminos since my first in 2012. I’ve spent many days volunteering along the trail, and if I’m not walking one now, I’m planning the next—and would love nothing more than to help you plan yours, too. Originally from the US, my husband and I live in a town of 6500 people on the Camino del Norte.