010: Should You Skip the Camino de Santiago Because of Bedbugs?
Advice, actual research, and a little comic relief from someone who’s been there
The other day I saw this in a Camino Facebook group:
“My friend was going to walk the Camino, but he heard you can get bedbugs… so he decided not to go.”
My first thought?
If the possibility of encountering a bedbug is enough to keep you from experiencing the magic of the Camino de Santiago… then yeah, maybe you’re not ready for it.
The Camino is not a Viking River Cruise. In the latter, from the moment you step off the plane and onto your boat, everything is planned for you and you pretty much know how the trip will go.
The Camino? Not so much.
Yes, you can plan. Yes, you may even feel pretty darn good that you’re ready.
But if you can’t handle the unexpected. . . go book yourself another Viking cruise.
But I digress. Back to bedbugs.
I’ve walked twelve Caminos.
And I’ve had bedbugs once.
That's a few days of annoyance out of hundreds.
Not exactly an epidemic.
Is it a possibility? Absolutely.
Could you trip over your own two feet tomorrow and break an ankle? Absolutely.
Does that keep you from leaving your house? I didn’t think so.
My Experience
Critters who bite tend to love me. But I didn’t think about this on the Camino until the morning I woke up with a pebbled road on my left upper arm and welts across my chest. That’s a story for another day, because guess what? That wasn’t bed bugs.
A couple Caminos later, I found something in the night had decided to work its way around my waist, leaving me a belt of red itchy spots. Guess what? That wasn’t bed bugs, either.
So if you’re expecting bedbugs on the Camino, I’ve got news for you: expect the unexpected.
So… What Are Bedbugs?
**WARNING: Yucky description forthcoming. If you don’t like that kind of stuff, skip to the next section.**
Bedbugs are tiny, nearly flat, reddish-brown critters. Even I am repulsed by photos of them, so I won’t put one here.
Bedbugs feed on blood but they’re not dangerous. They don't live on people, and they don’t spread disease. They just bite. And then they leave behind little red bumps that itch like crazy—at least in my experience. Others can get bitten and have no reaction at all.
But they’re only in places that aren’t clean, right?
Nope. They are equal opportunity creatures. Like Camino pilgrims, you’ll find them in every type of accommodation available (and not just on the Camino—they certainly aren’t unique to Spain!).
Should You Use Permethrin?
I’d never heard of Permethrin until I started walking the Camino. It’s an insecticide that can be used to treat clothing and gear. Some people swear by it saying, “I sprayed everything with it and never got bedbugs!”
In their very scientific study of one person (themselves), they are 100% correct.
Let’s do a little challenge: you treat your stuff with Permethrin and I’ll actually look for evidence of bedbugs in my bed. Personally, I’d rather look and know than cuddle into my Permethrin-treated clothing and hope for the best.
Dr. Michael Potter is a University of Kentucky entomologist who studies bedbugs (and is one of the guests on The Camino Podcast, Episode 24). He explains that bedbugs go for exposed skin — the stuff that’s easily accessible when you’re sleeping: face, neck, hands. And you don’t spray your skin with Permethrin. Dr. Potter says not to count on it as your defense.
Bottom line: if spraying your clothes with permethrin gives you peace of mind, go ahead. But don’t count on it for bedbug protection. Your best defense is a quick room check and a little awareness.
What to Look for in Your Room
Bedbugs are great at hiding in seams and crevices: mattresses, headboards, and wooden bed frames. They’re not that big, and not easy to spot, so you have to know what to look for.
A recent Camino scene:
Dad: Did you check for bedbugs yet?
Me: No! (I stop what I’m doing and walk over to the bed.)
Dad: Though in a place like this, I doubt there’s a problem.
Me: Yes—because I’ve heard bedbugs carefully review a hotel’s star rating before choosing where to infest. (I start pulling up a corner of the sheet.)
Dad: Smart @ss.
Me: Oh! This place has the mattresses encased in plastic.
Dad: That’s good, right?
Me: Yeah. (But I check all the seams for the telltale signs anyway.)
Dad: If your bed doesn’t have them, mine’s probably fine.
Me: Sure. I’ve also heard that in rooms with two beds, bedbugs only choose one.
Dad: OK—that’s enough out of you.
Check the seams and edges of the mattress, especially near the head of the bed.
Look for tiny black dots (bedbug droppings) or small rust-colored stains (leftover from bites).
Lift the corner of the mattress and check underneath—it takes just a second.
Check along the headboard, especially if it’s fabric-covered or wood.
This takes less than a minute and helps me sleep more soundly.
What if I find evidence of bedbugs?
Bring it to the attention of the front desk/owners.
Ask to be moved to another room.
Check that room for bedbugs.
I’ve found evidence of bedbugs in a few accommodations over the years. Every time, I’ve explained what I saw and asked for another room. Every time, this was granted.
Signs of a Safer Bed
While nothing is 100%, some good signs:
Plastic mattress covers – Bedbugs prefer cozy fabric. Plastic? Not so much.
Metal bed frames – Less hiding space than wooden ones.
Clean, minimalist furniture – Clutter gives bugs more places to hide. Sparse and simple = better odds.
What If You Do Get Bitten?
It can take a couple days for a reaction to bedbug bites to occur. So if you wake up itchy, it doesn’t necessarily mean last night’s bed was the problem. You could’ve picked them up much earlier.
Bites usually appear in clusters or zigzag lines—but not always!
Some people don’t react at all. Others (like me) get itchy welts.
Treat with anti-itch cream or antihistamines, and wash your clothes and sleepwear in hot water, drying on high heat.
“Drying in high heat” is not easy to do in Spain as most people don’t own clothes dryers. Your best bet is to find a laundry mat. And read the labels on your belongings! Some synthetic fibers will melt on high heat.
Final Thoughts
Can you possibly get bedbugs on the Camino? Yes.
Will it ruin your trip? Only if you let it.
Should it stop you from going? Absolutely not.
Don't let the fear of a tiny bug keep you from a very big experience.
Buen Camino,
Rebecca
(12 Caminos, 1 bedbug incident, still walking)
Scenes from a Camino:
Camino Portugues
Camino Connections Calls
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